This inland town is the home of Appleton Estate, where one of Jamaica's leading rums is made. You can tour the distillery, watch a video showing how sugarcane is transformed into rum and sample the goods. Several tour companies offer excursions that include the Appleton Estate. The tours usually include a buffet lunch. You can see the estate on your own, as well, but if you are not going as part of a group and wish to have lunch, you should call ahead to make arrangements. 

Just west of Appleton are the Y S Falls. You get to the cascade by taking a tractor-drawn trailer ride across pastureland. There's also a place to swim and a fantastic tree house - kids will love it. 35 mi/56 km west of Montego Bay.

Located on the southwest coast, Black River makes a convenient place to stop if you're traveling between Kingston and Negril. The main attraction is the Black River Safari, a short trip through the largest remaining crocodile refuge in Jamaica. Have a drink at the bar of the Bridgehouse Inn, or try their local cuisine, which is reasonably priced. 

Just 20 mi/32 km west of Black River is Bluefields, a lovely beach used mostly by Jamaicans. Development may be in the plans - this unspoiled area should be seen sooner rather than later. 

North of Black River is the town of Middle Quarters, where you can buy hot peppered shrimp from roadside vendors. But beware: They're very peppery! Just east of Middle Quarters is Bamboo Avenue (Highway A2), where trees arch over the road and form a picturesque tunnel. 100 mi/160km west of Kingston.

Famous for their namesake coffee, these mountains form one of the highest continuous mountain ranges in the Caribbean. They have a fragile ecosystem: In recent years, the range has suffered extensive damage from hurricanes, floods and landslides as well as deforestation and development.

In a recent effort to spur preservation, about 200,000 acres/81,000 hectares of this rugged territory have become part of a preserve, the Blue and John Crow Mountains National Park (the John Crow Mountains are east of the Blue Mountain range). It includes several mineral springs, old plantation houses and hundreds of flowering plants and ferns, more than half of which grow only in Jamaica. It is a treasure trove for bird-watchers (look for the doctor birds, which are hummingbirds with amazingly long tails, and large buzzards known as "John Crows"). Hiking trails abound. 

Other attractions in the mountain range include Hollywell Forest Park (picnic grounds, spartan cottages, hiking trails) and lots of waterfalls. The coffee plantations that produce the tasty and expensive Blue Mountain coffee can be toured. From September to February you can watch the beans being picked and processed. The Blue Mountains begin 12 mi/20 km northeast of Kingston.

This region is characterized by an unusual formation of limestone hummocks and sinkholes, heavily overgrown and mostly inaccessible except at the outer fringes. Their attraction lies in their surreal appearance, best seen from the air. 

The Maroons (freed Spanish slaves who fought against the British to keep their liberty) found the Cockpit's inhospitable terrain perfect for their guerrilla warfare. They are the only people to have inhabited it. Accompong in Cockpit Country is the major western Maroon town. It is worth visiting in January, when the Maroons hold their celebrations. (At other times it is no more interesting than any other Jamaican village.) Spelunkers may want to investigate the Windsor Caves: Tours are available. 68 mi/109 km southeast of Montego Bay.

Located on the north coast between Montego Bay and Ocho Rios, Discovery Bay may be the spot where Columbus first came ashore in 1494, though nearby St. Ann's Bay is another possibility. Today, Discovery Bay's main point of interest for travelers is Puerto Seco Beach, which is nicely maintained, with changing rooms, clean toilet facilities and a snack bar. Calm waters and a shallow shelf make this protected bay a popular weekend destination for families from as far away as Kingston. The beach is rather narrow, but there are lots of picnic tables shaded by coconut trees - grab one as soon as you arrive, because they go fast. The parking lot is fenced and secured. 73 mi/112 km northwest of Kingston.

This former sugar port is past its prime but remains a charming, unspoiled example of a Jamaican fishing village. It is busiest during the Wednesday market. One of Falmouth's most popular attractions is the Martha Brae River, which is toured aboard a bamboo raft. Contact River Raft Limited, which runs daily trips 8:30 am-4:30 pm. The one- to two-hour trips cost about US$40 per two-person raft. Phone 876-610-6698. 

Another boat tour takes you to visit a phosphorescent lagoon, which is best seen on moonless nights. The trips depart from the Glistening Waters restaurant. 

Back in Falmouth itself, highlights include the Victorian market and the parish church (built in 1796). You'll see several examples of Georgian architecture along Market Street west of the town center (near Water Square), including the mansion built in 1799 by the family of Elizabeth Barrett Browning. Attractions in the surrounding area include tours of the Good Hope Plantation and Caribatik, a studio, shop and gallery where you can watch batik cloth being designed. 90 mi/144 km northwest of Kingston.

Goshen is home to Wilderness Resorts, which is a fun place to spend the better part of a day. They have guided tours, paddleboats, hiking and jogging trails, nature trails, farm animals and catch-and-release fishing (or, if you like, you catch it and they cook it). It's an especially good diversion for children. 50 mi/80 km northwest of Kingston.

Though not a major tourist spot like Montego Bay or Ocho Rios, Kingston (pop. 850,000) is worth seeing because it is the cultural and musical center (as well as the commercial, political and business hub) of the country. But visitors should be prepared to find a large chaotic city with its share of problems. (If you're in Jamaica primarily for a beach vacation, the best way to see Kingston might be on a day tour offered from the other, more tourist-oriented cities.) 

We think one of the best reasons for going to Kingston is to hear some of the reggae (and its more recent derivations, dub and dancehall) and soca (imported from Trinidad) that keep Kingston hopping. (Be sure to ask responsible hotel personnel which clubs are safe - Kingston is not the place to get too adventurous.) 

Any visit to Kingston should also include Devon House (restored home and showplace of local arts and crafts), Hope Botanical Gardens (quite good) and the Institute of Jamaica (to see the Shark Papers - documents found in the belly of a shark that helped solve a notorious maritime case in the 1800s). Although an earthquake in 1907 destroyed much of the city, a few old buildings remain, including Headquarters House, the former seat of government. 

A must-see is the Bob Marley Museum, which displays items relating to the famous reggae singer. The museum is located in a house where Marley once lived, and many of his songs were recorded there. 

Among the city's cultural offerings are the National Art Gallery and the Kingston Crafts Market, which has a wide range of straw and wood items. For those interested in the performing arts, the Jamaica Philharmonic Orchestra is Kingston-based, as are the National Dance Theatre Company and several other excellent dance troupes. The annual pantomime opens in December at the Ward Theatre and continues its run, usually until February or March, at the Little Theatre. Also worth seeing are the Jamaica Folk Singers (March and April) and works by local playwrights at the Philip Sherlock Creative Arts Center. 

Note: Kingston, the country's largest city, has a high crime rate. Keep an eye out for pickpockets, don't wear jewelry or expensive watches, and don't walk by yourself after dark. Licensed taxis are safe, but it's best to avoid public transportation. Check on the safety of specific areas before venturing out. 

Located just across the harbor from Kingston, Port Royal was once Jamaica's richest city. The wealth came from pirates who, after the English took control of Jamaica, were allowed to use the town as a base for their raids on foreign ships. The buccaneers' wild ways earned Port Royal the title of the "wickedest city in Christendom." That changed on 7 June 1692, when an earthquake and tidal wave sank much of the town beneath the sea, killing thousands of people. What was left of the town was repaired, and though Port Royal never regained its prominence, it served as an important British naval base. 

Today, you can visit several sites related to Port Royal's past. The Port Royal Archaeological Museum, housed in the old Royal Navy Hospital building, displays items that have been recovered from underwater excavations of old Port Royal. The Fort Charles Maritime Museum, housed in a fortress erected by the English, examines Jamaica's seafaring past. 

It's possible to hire a local boat captain to take you out to the beautiful white-sand beaches of one of the offshore cays for a relaxing day. This area is also one of the best spots in the country for scuba diving - its reefs are in better condition than others in Jamaica.

There's not a lot to do in Mandeville, but this pretty town some 2,000 ft/610 m up in the mountains offers relief from the heat of beach resorts. It's an important center for bauxite and alumina mining, which takes place outside town. Spend a day walking around town to see the colonial architecture, some of it dating from the 1700s. Marshall's Pen is a cattle plantation and bird sanctuary. You can take a tour of the restored 200-year-old estate house. On weekends, be sure to see the colorful Mandeville Market (handicrafts, clothing, produce) in the center of town. Golfers will enjoying playing at the Manchester Club, said to be the oldest golf course in the Western Hemisphere. 60 mi/96 km west of Kingston.

Known fondly as "MoBay," Montego Bay (pop. 92,000) is the second-largest city in Jamaica and the country's rowdy center of tourism: Cruise ships frequent its port, and most of the visitors who arrive in Jamaica by plane land just east of the city. The waterfront is lined with white-sand beaches and hotels. Because it's a much larger city than Jamaica's other tourist areas, it offers more in the way of sightseeing and nightlife. But size has also magnified Montego Bay's shortcomings: It can be somewhat dirty in places, and it has the highest concentration of street vendors and hustlers in the country.

This remote village high in the John Crow Mountains is the capital of the Windward Maroons, whose ancestors were slaves that were freed by the Spanish in the mid 1600s and who later battled against English colonists. Getting to Moore Town is not easy, partly because you have to travel a bumpy, winding road from Port Antonio (8 mi/13 km away, on the north coast of the island) and partly because you must receive permission from the leader of the community ("the Colonel") before you can visit. Because of these difficulties, we recommend that you see Moore Town as part of a tour. Several companies in Port Antonio can make all the arrangements. If you want to go on your own, have the Jamaica Tourist Board office in Port Antonio contact the community for you. 

We think it's worth the trouble to visit Moore Town. It gives you a glimpse of Maroon culture and history and also provides a close-up look at the backcountry of Jamaica. Be sure to stop at Dr. Sam Street's African Art and Maroon History Museum. Another highlight is Bump Grave, located near the school, which is the resting place of Nanny, the Maroon warrior queen. 87 mi/139 km east of Kingston.

Negril is probably the best place for visitors to meet Jamaicans on their own turf. While it's certainly a resort area, its carefree, unhurried atmosphere is quite unlike that of the other tourist towns, making it popular with Jamaicans as well as visitors. It's located an hour's drive southwest from Montego Bay along pretty coastline and through picturesque villages. 

The town is best known for Negril Beach, a 7-mi/11-km stretch of white sand on Long Bay that's considered one of the best in the Caribbean. There's another nice stretch of sand along Bloody Bay, north of Negril Beach. (A single road runs along the shore, so finding your way between the town and the beaches poses few problems.) The beaches are great places to relax, sunbathe, swim and watch spectacular sunsets. The water is calm and shallow enough that children can enjoy it. And Negril is the best place on the island for windsurfing. The public beaches are patrolled by guards to keep vendors from hassling visitors. 

Or you could while away the day at one of the all-inclusive resorts. Even if you're not a guest, you can purchase a day pass that grants you access to the hotel, the beach, all you can eat and drink, plus most of the water sports. Some of the resorts offer topless and clothing-optional beaches. 

For a particularly scenic view, visit the Negril Lighthouse, perched on high cliffs just southwest of town. Beneath it, snorkelers and divers can explore caves. Another good dive site is the Gallery (near Booby Cay), with steep ledges and canyons where scorpion fish and large sponges can be seen. 

If you're in town on Sunday, be sure to attend the local talent show in the town's small park. Nature lovers will want to visit the Great Morass swamplands to see birds and plants. They stretch to the northeast of Negril. 153 mi/246 km west of Kingston.

If Nine Miles doesn't sound familiar, don't feel bad: It's a remote mountain village that doesn't even appear on some maps. (It's about 25 mi/40 km south of Runaway Bay, between Alexandria and Claremont, on roads that become increasingly potholed and winding.) This remote corner of Jamaica is notable for one thing only: Bob Marley, reggae legend, was born and is buried there. 

Whether you're a fan or not, the drive through unspoiled countryside is well worth the effort. The miniature chapel that marks Marley's burial place is painted in red, green and gold Rasta colors and has a stained-glass window depicting the Lion of Judah. Nearby, you can visit the house Marley grew up in. 48 mi/77 km northwest of Kingston.

Ocho Rios offers the island's best shopping, varied nightlife and fairly good (though often crowded) beaches. It sits on the edge of the jungle in a sheltered bay with a mountainous backdrop - truly lovely. Ocho Rios is Jamaica's most-visited cruise-ship port, while many noncruisers frequent the all-inclusive resorts in the area. Our only regret is that, as Ocho Rios continues to develop, it is losing the charm that made it so popular in the first place.

Once a banana port, Port Antonio became a tourist destination in the 1940s, after actor Errol Flynn bought Navy Island, just offshore, and began hosting parties that were attended by Hollywood celebrities. The most easterly of the north coast resort areas, Port Antonio has a sleepier feel than Montego Bay and Ocho Rios but has all the prerequisites for a vacation spot: beaches, golf, deep-sea fishing and a lovely mountain setting. Its laid-back atmosphere will likely please those who are put off by the commercialization of some of the north coast's other hotspots.

A small town on the north coast, about 20 mi/32 km east of Ocho Rios, Port Maria is best known as the site of Firefly, the estate where Noel Coward lived prior to his death in 1973. At 1,000 ft/300 m above the coastline, Firefly offers a stunning view of Port Maria Bay and the town. Firefly was renovated in the 1990s to evoke the heyday of the great playwright, who is buried in a corner of the garden, precisely where he enjoyed his evening brandy. His books, piano and other personal effects are on display. You may want to pay a visit to Port Maria itself to get a look at its Anglican church and court house, both constructed in the 1800s. 

Just southeast of Port Maria is Brimmer Hall Estate, a working plantation that includes a colonial-era Great House built in the 1700s. A tractor-drawn jitney tour of the 700-acre/280-hectare property covers the cultivation and harvesting of coconuts, bananas, coffee, sugarcane, cocoa and pimento. A good restaurant serves Jamaican dishes, and there are shops and a swimming pool for cooling off. 45 mi/70 km north of Kingston.

Another of the resort areas lining the north coast, Runaway Bay is home to lots of hotels. The primary travel attraction is Runaway Caves and Green Grotto. Miles of passages in these caves are said to have served as hideouts for pirates, runaway slaves and the Spanish colonists who were being pursued by the English after the British invasion of the island. The caverns have extraordinary stalactites and stalagmites. At the eerie Green Grotto, you can take a boat trip across a deep underground pool. 66 mi/106 km northwest of Kingston.

If you're staying in Kingston, set aside a couple of hours to see nearby Spanish Town (pop. 42,000). The town is well past its glory days - it was Jamaica's capital from 1534 to 1872. See the Georgian-facade buildings (especially around the town square) and the Cathedral Church of St. James, which is said to be the oldest in the British-speaking West Indies (it dates to 1714). The Jamaican People's Museum of Craft and Technology includes a mock slave village. 15 mi/25 km west of Kingston.

Located on the north coast, St. Ann's Bay makes a convenient stop for those traveling between Montego Bay and Ocho Rios. Its town square is the focal point of a visit. See the mid-1800s church, then visit the statues of two historical figures linked to St. Ann's Bay. The statue of Marcus Garvey is in front of the library. It commemorates the Jamaican national hero who championed a "back to Africa" movement for blacks in the U.S. He was born near St. Ann's Bay in 1887. Christopher Columbus has a statue on the square as well. According to one theory, Columbus first came ashore in Jamaica at St. Ann's Bay in 1494. Others believe he made landfall at Discovery Bay, farther west. 

One of the best equestrian facilities in the Caribbean, Chukka Cove Farm, is located near St. Ann's Bay. One-hour trail rides, two-hour mountain rides and three-hour beach rides are offered. 57 mi/91 km northwest of Kingston.