Brisbane

Australia's third-largest city (pop. 1,591,000) is drawing crowds - and not just because it's a convenient place to stay while enjoying nearby subtropical forests, wildlife and beaches. Downtown, which is centered along bends in the Brisbane River, is a vibrant mix of modern skyscrapers and older buildings - some of which date back to the city's days as a penal colony. Mount Coottha, a scant 5 mi/8 km away, overlooks the city - go there at night for the view or during the day to visit the botanic gardens (subtropical flora). The city has lovely downtown parks, including the South Bank Parklands (across the river from downtown) and the Brisbane Forest (65,000 acres/28,500 hectares of natural bushland just outside the city). Visit the outstanding Riverside Markets every Sunday 7 am-4 pm for locally crafted and imported handicrafts, clothing, jewelry, furniture, housewares, local produce, plants and homemade treats. 

Once you've explored Brisbane, head to the animal sanctuaries and parks. At the Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary, a 7-mi/11-km drive (or a cruise on the Brisbane River) southwest of town, visitors can see koala bears, kangaroos and other Australian animals close up. And don't miss the Natural Trust of Queensland's Currumbin Sanctuary (11 mi/18 km south of Surfers Paradise), noted for huge flocks of brightly colored lorikeets (a type of parrot). Still another interesting animal sanctuary is Bunya Park, about an hour's drive from town. The Australia Zoo is also only an hour's drive from Brisbane via the Bruce Highway. The Australian Woolshed (7 mi/12 km northwest) offers sheepshearing and sheepdog demonstrations. Southwest of Brisbane is Lamington National Park, a large subtropical rain forest with waterfalls, birds and hiking trails. 

Though Brisbane is inland, it isn't far from some good beaches. The Gold Coast, south of Brisbane, is the country's most popular and most developed resort area. More than 4 million visitors a year flock to the high-rise hotels and the golden-sand beaches, creating a festival atmosphere similar to Hawaii's Waikiki Beach and Florida's Miami Beach. Traffic jams, casual cafes, exclusive shops and loud late-night bars abound, particularly in the area known as Surfers Paradise. (You'll either love the Gold Coast or hate it.) North of Brisbane is the more sedate Sunshine Coast (low-rise accommodations and less traffic). If you have some extra time, we recommend the scenic drive north from Brisbane up the Sunshine Coast to the striking cape with the peculiar name, Noosa Heads. Lizard fans will appreciate the large monitor lizards, called goannas, that roam freely above the surfing beach. Koalas can also be seen in the gum trees at Noosa National Park. In the nearby town, you can shop and dine on trendy Hastings Street. Brisbane lies 460 mi/740 km north of Sydney.

Townsville

This town (pop. 122,000) is often overlooked because it has fewer tourist attractions than Cairns. But it also has fewer tourists, which means it feels more like a typical Australian town than a mecca for travelers headed to the Great Barrier Reef. At least a one-day stop is warranted there just to see the Great Barrier Reef Wonderland, an aquarium that contains a re-created coral reef. Under artificial conditions, the aquarium is fostering 150 different species of coral and nearly 200 species of sea life. (Allow at least half a day.) In addition, the city has a lively casino, several museums and a botanical garden. Townsville is also close to Magnetic Island, which is only 5 mi/8 km and a short ferry ride away. (It's considered almost a suburb.) The island offers a wide variety of accommodations and restaurants, beaches and coves (part of the island is a national park). Plan at least one day on the island. About 90 minutes west of Townsville is Charters Towers, an old gold-mining town that claims to be the east coast's beginning of the Outback. Townsville is 170 mi/275 km southeast of Cairns

Cape York Peninsula

The horn-shaped peninsula at the northern end of Queensland is a showcase of Aboriginal culture and cave paintings, dense jungles, the Quinkan Caves and abundant wildlife (kangaroos, emus and koalas). Hardy travelers will find this area fascinating, but it's best seen on a tour - you'll need a week to do it justice. The peninsula is between the Coral Sea and the Gulf of Carpentaria. Within reach of the coast are several small islands, including Possession Island, where Captain Cook took possession of the east coast of Australia. The tip of Cape York is about 500 mi/800 km north of Cairns.

Fraser Island

Named for a shipwrecked Englishwoman, Eliza Fraser, this island north of Noosa Heads is the largest coastal dune system in the world. A paradise of beaches, coves and wildlife (such as the Australian dingo), it also has lush forests and clear lakes that contrast dramatically with its wind-sculpted sand. Fraser Island is best negotiated by four-wheel-drive vehicles driven onto barges at Inskip Point. Tour operators will rent the vehicles as well as pick you up at Hervey Bay airport or from accommodations on the mainland and on the island. 125 mi/200 km north of Brisbane.

Great Barrier Reef

Extending nearly 1,200 mi/2,000 km along Australia's northeast coast, the Great Barrier Reef is one of the world's most magnificent coral reefs. The colorful outcroppings of coral and the abundance of other sea life, along with the clarity of the water, make the area a must-visit. The reef and the islands between it and the mainland are incredible places to sail, snorkel and dive and ride in glass-bottomed boats and semisubmersible craft. 

The reef begins in southern Queensland about 185 mi/300 km off the coast of Bundaberg and Gladstone. It runs parallel to the mainland as far north as the tip of Cape York, where the reef almost touches land. The lagoon between the reef and the coast includes several thousand small reefs, as well as more than 600 islands. Only about 20 of the islands have resorts, but you can camp at some of the other small islands. 

The easiest way to explore the reef is on day trips from Townsville, Cairns, Port Douglas and a few other places along the coast. Tour companies are everywhere and offer a variety of tours. Travelers should be aware, however, that after travel time is subtracted, a day trip leaves only about three or so hours for snorkeling and diving. Boats range from large, comfortable catamarans to small, intimate yachts. Budget-priced excursions also abound, but some boats are slower and offer fewer services and possibly a noisy, crowded trip. Experienced divers should spend several nights aboard a dive boat. You can see more of the reef if you travel north of Cairns to the Coral Sea (the Yongala Wreck and the Cod Hole are two popular dive spots). 

Another option is to stay on one of the coral islands near the reef. Three of them offer overnight accommodations and operate a variety of boat, air or helicopter services for viewing coral areas and fish. Our favorite is Heron Island, which is reached by air or a two-hour boat ride from Gladstone. We recommend that first-time visitors stay at least two nights. It's an ideal spot for divers, nature lovers and those wanting to get away from it all. Good dining. (Heron is a bit more formal than many of the other islands.) You can visit Green Island on a day trip from Cairns, or you can overnight at its small luxury resort. The closest coral island to the mainland, Green offers good snorkeling, scuba diving and coral viewing. Lady Elliot (reached from Bundaberg) is the southernmost coral cay on the reef, offering white-sand beaches, diving, reef walking and fairly basic accommodations in cabins and safari tents. 

The 15 other resort islands are high or continental islands, which are actually the tops of submerged mountains. They are located at varying distances from the outer reef. You can stay on one of them and take day trips (by boat) to the outer reef. Among the more popular of these islands are the following: 

• Dunk Island - This island south of Cairns will appeal to those who love nature. It is covered by rain forest and bougainvillea, and butterflies fill the air. With its nice beaches, Dunk is a good, slightly upscale family destination. 

• Great Keppel Island - Reached by plane or boat from Rockhampton, Great Keppel is an informal place managed by Contiki for party lovers ages 18-35 - there's something going on nearly all the time. Those who enjoy this atmosphere will want to stay at least two days. 

• Hamilton Island - This island, which is part of the Whitsunday group located south of Townsville, is one of the most developed on the reef, with a marine village, restaurants, cafes, bars, watersports and a large high-rise resort, as well as a range of other accommodations. In addition to underwater attractions, there's a nature park on nearby Dent with emus, koalas and kangaroos. It's an excellent family destination. Hamilton can be reached by air or boat. 

• Hayman Island - Also part of the Whitsundays, Hayman is one of the most deluxe resorts on the reef. Lying near the Tropic of Cancer, it has a beautiful lagoon. The island's 214-room hotel offers its international clientele ample opportunities for diving and snorkeling, sailing, bush walking, golfing and playing tennis. Most visitors arrive by air or boat on Hamilton Island and then take a luxury launch transfer to Hayman. 

• Lizard Island - The most northern of the resort islands, Lizard is known for its deep-sea fishing (especially marlin), snorkeling, great scuba diving (especially Cod Hole) and the harmless monitor lizard that lives there. The island is informal, yet it's a luxury resort that will appeal mainly to those who love to get away from the crowds. The island, which is 180 mi/270 km north of Cairns, can be reached by air. Some small cruise ships and dive boats stop at the island.

Tjapukai Aboriginal Cultural Park

Visitors will get a complete and meaningful glimpse of the rich and ancient culture of Australia. There are five theatres, a museum, an art gallery and a traditional Aboriginal camp all preserving and presenting authentic Aboriginal culture with the aid of technology.

Glass House Mountains

From the main lookout point you will see a series of spectacular volcanic plugs rising dramatically from the coastal plain. The area is noted for the scenery and sub-tropical fruits such as pineapples, custard apples and avocadoes.

Cobb & Co. Museum

Located high on the Great Dividing Range in Toowoomba, the museum has a fine collection of horse drawn vehicles, a blacksmiths shop, and more. Receive an in-depth insight into the development of transportation before the introduction of railways.

Black's Palace Aboriginal Site

This site is a storehouse of Queensland's archaeological, historical and cultural wealth. You will see paintings which tell the dreamtime stories, sacred burial sites and spiritual caves of the Aborigines. This historical site records the 40,000 year old ancient culture.

Beenleigh Rum Distillery

Located on the backs of the Alber River is the oldest working distillery in Australia. Learn the secrets of the age old tradition of making fine rum in the museum. Taste the influence of oak on rum. See the historic copper pot stills dwarfed by their modern three column counterpart.